About this blog
Marnie and Paul are a retired couple living in Arrowsic, Maine. We have enjoyed brief visits to various parts of the state, and our enthusiasm for these visits led friends to suggest we "write them up." So here are some very short descriptions of where we've been and what we did there, along with links to web sites where appropriate. We hope readers will comment on these places and add their own impressions and suggestions.
The places we visited are not listed in any special order.
York Harbor
We took advantage of a great deal via Travelzoo for a night at the York Harbor Inn plus $25 dining voucher for $89 plus tax. At the end of February there were not many guests at this beautiful old inn, although many locals came to the inn's excellent pub for drinks and dinner. Our room in the main inn was small but complete and immaculate, with a view across the harbor if you stood up. The staff was pleasant and helpful. On a sunny day we crossed the street to the park and descended to the cliff walk. The walk is gorgeous, though footing is not always smooth. That evening we ate in the pub, as the main dining hall was not open. However, they had a full menu and the quality was first-rate, as was the free breakfast the next morning. Years ago we had a family trip to the Inn on the Blues at York Beach. That was fun, but this was a more mature visit!
Warren Island
More camping, this time by water. Warren Island State Park is about half a mile off the coast of Islesboro, near the ferry terminal. We took our old aluminum canoe and paddled out. The island has 11 campsites and maybe half of them were filled in early June. There is plenty of privacy, great beauty, and lots of raspberries. This is great place to camp, or to come by boat, as the state maintains six morrings just offshore.
Sebago Lake
Following our southern winter camping trip, we wanted to round out our book with Maine tenting experiences. We had heard good things about Sebago Lake Campground, a very large campground on Maine's largest Lake. In late May it was not hard to find a spot, and we chose one right near the lake. If we go back, we will choose a site near the back of the campground, instead, as the sites by the lake are small and crowded, even in May, while the rest of the vast space is vacant. It is a beautiful spot and there are plenty of good walks nearby. The State Park is separate from the campground and more interesting.
Hermit Island
Well, we were thinking about being a septuagenarian camping couple and we decided to try our skills at this campground, which is so popular that it sells out as soon as reservations are accepted in January. Fortunately, after Labor Day, things change. All sites are one price, first come-first served. We got there on the Friday after Labor day, checked in, and found all of the beach sites taken, but some beautiful sites available, of which we chose one. It is a rustic campgound, but with great water access and beautiful hiking trails. We loved swimming at the beach, and walking the area. Great tent sites.
Searsport
Having driven by it for years, we decided to stay for a night at the Captain A.V. Nickels Inn, a huge old sea captain's house that is being rehabilitated as a B&B. Because of Internet problems, the owner did not expect us, but put us in a third-floor suite, very elegant, with a large terrace overlooking Penobscot Bay. Two highlights of the trip: first, we drove via Rt. 218 from Wiscasset (then 17, then 131 to 3 to Belfast), which provided a gorgeous slice of Maine and no summer traffic. Second, we had dinner at the Mermaid, in the B&B next door. It was one of our best meals ever on the road.
Christmas Cove
In late March we responded to an add offering a night at the Christmas Cove Inn (also known as the Unique Yankee B&B) for $99, with a $25 gift certificate to the Samoset Restaurant in New Harbor (25 min away). Absolutely nothing is happening in Christmas Cove in March. On the other hand, the Inn itself was wonderful: opulent, new, beautifully designed. It is run by a very interesting couple, and is a great place for pets. Wonderful breakfast. Not many walks right there in winter, but driving around is fun.
Belgrade Lakes
On Columbus Day we drove via back roads to Belgrade Lakes. Although the leaves were just a bit past peak, it was a beautiful day, just cool enough so we could hike The Mountain, picnic on Blueberry Hill, and then get some spectacular views from French's Mountain. We stayed at the Village Inn, where we dined on duck. It was an excellent meal, and we were not quite the only diners. We were, however, the only overnighters after a very busy weekend at the inn. Our picnic came from Day's Store, which is a gem. A fine trip at just the right time.
Camden
This past spring we spent two nights at The Lodge at Camden Hills. It was a very good accommodation, a suite that seemed like a little cottage (they have cottages, too). We were right next to Camden Hills State Park, and we enjoyed, despite some damp weather, the climb to the 1300-foot high Ocean Lookout on Mt. Megunticook. We had two homestyle breakfasts at Marriner's, which were filling, excellent, and cheap. We had quite an adventurous dinner at the Whale's Tooth Pub in Lincolnville Beach, where everyone seemed to be a local and the quality was excellent. We also dined at The Waterfront, which was good, but not especially memorable. Though we would not go to Camden in July or August, it was charming in early May.
In September 2015 we returned, again thanks to Andrea, this time to the Hartstone Inn. There, the tasting meal was superb. The next night we dined at Fresh, maybe even better. Camden gets better all the time. If you go, stroll down Mechanic Street at night and across the new footbridge, which is covered with flowers, lovely.
In September 2015 we returned, again thanks to Andrea, this time to the Hartstone Inn. There, the tasting meal was superb. The next night we dined at Fresh, maybe even better. Camden gets better all the time. If you go, stroll down Mechanic Street at night and across the new footbridge, which is covered with flowers, lovely.
Rangeley
On a bitter January day in 2003 we drove to Rangeley and stayed at the Rangeley Inn. They put us in one of the motel units by the lake, and in the afternoon Marnie made a x-c ski of the frozen water. Brrr. Later we went for a walk: brrrr again, 20 below as it came toward evening. But we had a snug supper in front of the Inn's tavern fireplace and watched the Super Bowl (Tampa Bay beat Oakland). In the morning we drove to Oquossoc and had a fabulous breakfast at the Oquossoc Grocery. Then a long, beautiful, lonely, cold drive home. Brrrrr..
Stonington
A few years ago Andrea gave us a stay at The Inn on the Harbor, a pleasant B&B right on the water in the heart of Stonington. We ate at The Fisherman's Friend, which had superb simple seafood and now has moved down to the water and become gussied up. Very gradually, this old fishing village is getting somewhat fashionable, but it is still real waterfront Maine, and the area has some beautiful coves and walks. We rented a Javelin sailboat at Old Quarry, but it was not in condition to sail. So they gave us a Rhodes 19 instead, and that would have been wonderful for poking around in Merchants Row -- gorgeous small islands -- but there was almost no wind and we had to do some paddling. Ah, well.
Bethel
Bethel is the town for Sunday River, but we did not go there in the winter. On our two trips we stayed at B & Bs: the Chapman Inn and Austin's Holidae House. Both were fine, though Austin's "carpe diem" is hard to beat. The town is small and fun to explore, as it includes the campus of Gould Academy. There are plenty of places to eat here, but we loved the Jolly Drayman Pub so much the first time that we returned. Almost as good the second time. There are great hikes in this area. Our favorite was Step Falls, which is gorgeous and dramatic when the water runs. Lots of great things to do around Bethel.
Visited spring 2008 and spring 2011.
Visited spring 2008 and spring 2011.
Fryeburg
We went to see a Celtic music show at Stone Mountain and decided to see and stay in Fryeburg. The Oxford House Inn was terrific: nice folks, good room, walks (fields and Fryeburg Academy) and a wonderful breakfast. We really loved Stone Mountain, too. This is a beautiful, active two-state area.
Visited August 2010.
Visited August 2010.
Higgins Beach
Having stopped briefly by Two Lights State Park in Scarborough, we decided to return to this interesting area. We spent a night at the Higgins Beach Inn, an old classic a block from the popular beach. It was a real throwback, but modernized in some respects, very well managed, and cheap. Their restaurant is well reviewed, though we opted for the Rising Tide, a colorful place right by the sea at Pine Point. Turned out to be a good choice, unlike Ken's Place, where the chowder was just about all potato and the ambiance assembly line. Higgins Beach (off-season, of course) is a great getaway that is very close to Portland, but feels far off. Two great state parks (Crescent Beach and Two Lights) make it worth the trip.
Ogunquit
Another lovely spot that is overrun in the summer, Ogunquit gave us a grand visit in late spring. We stayed at The Milestone, which we enjoyed. Across the road was the road to the walkway to the beach, and we enjoyed that walk several times. This is one of Maine's finest beaches, and, in the spring, nearly deserted. The classic walk here is Marginal Way. We drove right into town, by the water, parked with ease, and had a long and lovely stroll. The lobster carbonara that Marnie had for dinner at the Post Road Tavern, right next to the Milestone, was one of the best dishes she has enjoyed in Maine. A neat spot. None of this was very expensive, and it gave great pleasure.. Visited: early May 2012.
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