This past spring we spent two nights at The Lodge at Camden Hills. It was a very good accommodation, a suite that seemed like a little cottage (they have cottages, too). We were right next to Camden Hills State Park, and we enjoyed, despite some damp weather, the climb to the 1300-foot high Ocean Lookout on Mt. Megunticook. We had two homestyle breakfasts at Marriner's, which were filling, excellent, and cheap. We had quite an adventurous dinner at the Whale's Tooth Pub in Lincolnville Beach, where everyone seemed to be a local and the quality was excellent. We also dined at The Waterfront, which was good, but not especially memorable. Though we would not go to Camden in July or August, it was charming in early May.
In September 2015 we returned, again thanks to Andrea, this time to the Hartstone Inn. There, the tasting meal was superb. The next night we dined at Fresh, maybe even better. Camden gets better all the time. If you go, stroll down Mechanic Street at night and across the new footbridge, which is covered with flowers, lovely.
About this blog
Marnie and Paul are a retired couple living in Arrowsic, Maine. We have enjoyed brief visits to various parts of the state, and our enthusiasm for these visits led friends to suggest we "write them up." So here are some very short descriptions of where we've been and what we did there, along with links to web sites where appropriate. We hope readers will comment on these places and add their own impressions and suggestions.
The places we visited are not listed in any special order.
Rangeley
On a bitter January day in 2003 we drove to Rangeley and stayed at the Rangeley Inn. They put us in one of the motel units by the lake, and in the afternoon Marnie made a x-c ski of the frozen water. Brrr. Later we went for a walk: brrrr again, 20 below as it came toward evening. But we had a snug supper in front of the Inn's tavern fireplace and watched the Super Bowl (Tampa Bay beat Oakland). In the morning we drove to Oquossoc and had a fabulous breakfast at the Oquossoc Grocery. Then a long, beautiful, lonely, cold drive home. Brrrrr..
Stonington
A few years ago Andrea gave us a stay at The Inn on the Harbor, a pleasant B&B right on the water in the heart of Stonington. We ate at The Fisherman's Friend, which had superb simple seafood and now has moved down to the water and become gussied up. Very gradually, this old fishing village is getting somewhat fashionable, but it is still real waterfront Maine, and the area has some beautiful coves and walks. We rented a Javelin sailboat at Old Quarry, but it was not in condition to sail. So they gave us a Rhodes 19 instead, and that would have been wonderful for poking around in Merchants Row -- gorgeous small islands -- but there was almost no wind and we had to do some paddling. Ah, well.
Bethel
Bethel is the town for Sunday River, but we did not go there in the winter. On our two trips we stayed at B & Bs: the Chapman Inn and Austin's Holidae House. Both were fine, though Austin's "carpe diem" is hard to beat. The town is small and fun to explore, as it includes the campus of Gould Academy. There are plenty of places to eat here, but we loved the Jolly Drayman Pub so much the first time that we returned. Almost as good the second time. There are great hikes in this area. Our favorite was Step Falls, which is gorgeous and dramatic when the water runs. Lots of great things to do around Bethel.
Visited spring 2008 and spring 2011.
Visited spring 2008 and spring 2011.
Fryeburg
We went to see a Celtic music show at Stone Mountain and decided to see and stay in Fryeburg. The Oxford House Inn was terrific: nice folks, good room, walks (fields and Fryeburg Academy) and a wonderful breakfast. We really loved Stone Mountain, too. This is a beautiful, active two-state area.
Visited August 2010.
Visited August 2010.
Higgins Beach
Having stopped briefly by Two Lights State Park in Scarborough, we decided to return to this interesting area. We spent a night at the Higgins Beach Inn, an old classic a block from the popular beach. It was a real throwback, but modernized in some respects, very well managed, and cheap. Their restaurant is well reviewed, though we opted for the Rising Tide, a colorful place right by the sea at Pine Point. Turned out to be a good choice, unlike Ken's Place, where the chowder was just about all potato and the ambiance assembly line. Higgins Beach (off-season, of course) is a great getaway that is very close to Portland, but feels far off. Two great state parks (Crescent Beach and Two Lights) make it worth the trip.
Ogunquit
Another lovely spot that is overrun in the summer, Ogunquit gave us a grand visit in late spring. We stayed at The Milestone, which we enjoyed. Across the road was the road to the walkway to the beach, and we enjoyed that walk several times. This is one of Maine's finest beaches, and, in the spring, nearly deserted. The classic walk here is Marginal Way. We drove right into town, by the water, parked with ease, and had a long and lovely stroll. The lobster carbonara that Marnie had for dinner at the Post Road Tavern, right next to the Milestone, was one of the best dishes she has enjoyed in Maine. A neat spot. None of this was very expensive, and it gave great pleasure.. Visited: early May 2012.
Jonesport
On our way Down East to Campobello, we spent a night in the fishing village of Jonesport, staying at the small and pleasant Raspberry Shores Inn. It may not be in business still, but the Harbor House has good reviews. We ate at The Seafarer's Wife, but it is closed. There will be someplace to eat, for sure, and it will be good, and full of locals. We drove across to Beals, and then to Great Wass Island, much of which is owned by the Nature Conservancy. Good trails, nice views.
Bar Harbor
We have been to Bah Hahbah in late May, a great time to go, when almost everything is open and there are very few visitors. We have stayed at the Bar Harbor Motel, Emery's Cottages, and the Atlantic Eyrie Lodge. These are very different places, all recommended, with excellent pre-season prices. The main reason we come is to hike the Acadia trails, of which there are many. Our favorite is Dorr Mountain, but we have done lots of others, and a good guide book or web search will steer you right. Our favorite place to eat is Poor Boy's Gourmet, a funky spot where we have tried lots of dishes without disappointment. Since we think we can dine well close to home or in Portland, food is not high on our list in Bah Hahbah. Great breakfast, though, at Cafe This Way, and Subway opens early enough to make sandwiches to take on the trail.
Corinth
A vacation destination? Really? We spent a night here in a Mom and Pop motel with lace curtains, the name of which I cannot summon. It was inexpensive and clean. But the Countryside Restaurant is one of the best places to eat in Maine. Who would think that you would get truly great seafood here, this far from the sea? But it is true. There is a covered bridge in town, and the roads around Corinth yield great views of other hamlets, like Hiram. This is not the 21st century, surely?
Visited June 2002.
Visited June 2002.
Southwest Harbor
We spent a couple of nights at the Mansell House in Manset about 15 years ago. It is still there and going strong. You get a sense of privacy and plenty of space, right near the water. Or you can stay at the Moorings on the same property. The reason to stay here is to rent a sailboat from Mansell Boat Rentals. They have Rhodes 19s with motors and Bullseyes. The Bullseye is a marconi-rigged "12 1/2" 16-foot keel boat that is a very sweet sailer. We had a spectacular day sailing around some of the most beautiful and interesting waters in the world. There is also very good hiking nearby. An easy but rewarding trail is the Flying Mountain hike. You aren't far from Bar Harbor, but why go there in the summer? This is the "quiet side" of Mt. Desert.
Vinalhaven
We have been to Vinalhaven several times. You take the ferry from Rockland, a great trip. We always have stayed at the Tidewater Inn. Many rooms have water rushing under them. Early, very early, you hear the lobster boats chugging out out of Carver's Harbor. The Tidewater has a dinky take-out breakfast, but you can get a real breakfast at the Surfside. The motel has bikes for free for guests and good luck with them. Eat at the Harbor Gawker across the street for a taste of local life. Sometimes the Haven serves dinner. Take a walk around Lane's Island Preserve, just a short walk from town. You are right in the middle of island life. It's great.
North Haven Island
We took the ferry from Rockland to North Haven Island and checked into Nebo Lodge. It was a perfect day, gentle breeze, no clouds. However, we put it to the test by cycling all over the place, with only one fall and no blood. We especially enjoyed the climb to and view from Ames Knob -- a panorama of the Fox Islands and the Thoroughfare. Dinner at Nebo Lodge was very good, though not worth raving about, as others have done on Trip Advisor. But it is a lovely place, and we enjoyed it very much.
On the way home we found a neat harborside eatery in Thomaston, called the Slipway. Right down Knox Street. Fabulous.
Date of visit: July, 2012.
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